A Guide to Sun Valley, Idaho's Old-School Ski City

Sun Valley, anchored by the city of Ketchum, was once a quiet mining and sheep-ranching community in rural central Idaho. All changed in the 1930s, when Union Pacific Railroad executives began brainstorming ways to boost winter train travel. Their quest brought them to this quiet pocket of the Sawtooth Mountains, where they decided to build the first European-style destination ski resort in America. In 1936, the lifts started spinning at Sun Valley Resort, ushering in a bold new era for the region. Hollywood stars, writers, politicians, and socialites began flocking to Sun Valley—some lured by free trips offered by Union Pacific’s top brass—transforming this once-rough-and-tumble region into a refined, glamorous mountain retreat.

Nine decades later, Sun Valley remains a top choice for skiers and non-skiers alike, blending old-school western charm with elegant, modern comforts. Whether you’re carving fresh powder on Bald Mountain, perusing Ketchum’s many art galleries, or cozying up by the fire in a historic lodge, Sun Valley strikes the perfect balance between adventure and relaxation. As Sun Valley Resort prepares to celebrate its 90th winter season in 2025–26, here’s how to plan the ultimate winter trip.

A starry night at the Alturas Lake Outlet in Central Idaho Dark Sky Reserve

Nils Ribi

Heading up the slopes on a chairlift at Sun Valley Resort

Ray J. Gadd/Sun Valley Resort

In the winter, the region’s biggest draw is downhill skiing and snowboarding. Sun Valley Resort, which invented the world’s first ski chairlift, is home to two distinct mountains: Bald Mountain, also known as “Baldy,” is a 9,150-foot-tall peak with a good mix of beginner, intermediate, and advanced terrain spread across 2,533 acres. Dollar Mountain, which tops out at 6,638 feet, has just a handful of mellow runs, making it ideal for kids and beginners. New for the 2025-26 ski season, Sun Valley is debuting 90 acres of new gladed terrain on Bald Mountain. Best for advanced skiers, the four new runs join the more than 350 acres of gladed terrain the resort has developed over the last five years as part of a broader project to improve forest health and reduce wildfire risk.

The resort is also rolling out radio frequency identification (RFID) technology at the base areas of both Baldy and Dollar Mountain. For a now hands-free and seamless process, guests won’t have to dig their lift tickets and passes out of their pockets to be manually scanned every time they board a chairlift. Little ones and beginners who are still getting comfortable on the snow can take advantage of Sunny’s Adventure Park, a colorful new terrain park with small berms and rollers opening this season at Dollar Mountain.

Adults can level up their skills, too—thanks to several new, multi-day camps geared toward skiers and riders of various ability levels. One, called EdgeWise, is designed specifically for women and is being led by an all-female team of instructors and coaches.

Thanks to new infrastructure improvements—including the replacement of older lifts with larger, faster ones, and the addition of several brand-new high-speed chairlifts—you can spend more time shredding and less time waiting in line. Next up, the resort hopes to upgrade the Lookout Express and Christmas chairlifts in the summer of 2026.

For travelers who enjoy a slightly slower pace on the snow (and a good workout), the ski resort also offers 25 miles of groomed cross-country trails, as well as uphill access on designated routes in the mornings and evenings. If you need gear or a quick skills refresher, Sun Valley Resort offers lessons and rentals for downhill skis and snowboards, Nordic skis, and snowshoes. There are also several rental options in Ketchum, including Sturtevants, PK’s Ski and Sports, and Black Tie. To ditch the lift lines completely, link up with an outfitter like Sun Valley Heli Ski or Sawtooth Mountain Guides to explore the region’s rugged backcountry safely.

Visitors admiring one of the many exhibitions live at Sun Valley Museum of Art, open year-round

Dev Khalsa/Sun Valley Museum of Art

After a day on the slopes, you might be tempted to head to bed early. But it’s worth it to stay up late here, as Sun Valley sits within the 1,416-square-mile Central Idaho Dark Sky Reserve. Since there’s almost no light pollution here, stargazing is as simple as going outside and looking up. On a clear night, you’ll see thousands of tiny pinpricks of light against a pitch-black sky and, if you’re lucky, you may even catch a glimpse of the Milky Way. And though it’s a small town, Ketchum has a lively arts and culture scene: Meander through the Sun Valley Museum of Art, which has a new “Hidden Gems: Idaho Collects” exhibition running this winter, and check the calendar of the Argyros Performing Arts Center, which hosts an array of concerts, dance performances, film screenings, and more.

Even if you’re not much of a history buff, the Blaine County Historical Museum in Hailey and the Wood River Museum of History and Culture in Ketchum are worth your time, as they offer helpful context and fascinating insights into the Wood River Valley’s transformation over the years. Ernest Hemingway fans should visit the Hemingway Memorial or his gravesite at the Ketchum Cemetery, then take a free audio walking tour to learn about the author’s deep love for the region. As for shopping, downtown Ketchum is lined with boutiques, outdoor outfitters, and other locally owned stores. Browse Huck & Paddle for home decor and gifts, and scour Chapter One Bookstore’s shelves for your next read.

A colorful Southeast Asian-style spread with loads of plates at The Rickshaw

Dev Khalsa

First thing in the morning, grab a table and soak up the mountain ambiance at The Kneadery, a homey, log cabin-style restaurant that’s been a Ketchum staple since 1974. Or, to get a jumpstart on the day’s shopping, sip an espresso while perusing the vintage and contemporary garb at Maude's Coffee and Clothes—part coffee shop, part clothing store. Savor a late lunch at Rasberrys, a popular bistro and catering company run by twin sisters Callie and Maeme Rasberry. The Old El Paso sandwich—made with shredded pork, bacon, pepper jack cheese, guacamole, roasted chiles, cole slaw, and cilantro aioli—is a flavor-packed favorite.

For dinner, Rickshaw is a beloved neighborhood eatery dishing out Southeast Asian–inspired small plates like chili-oil udon noodles and “KFC,” short for Korean fried chicken. Other spots to bookmark include The Covey for dry-aged steaks, Enoteca for wine and wood-fired pizzas, and Grumpy's for burgers and beer. Ketchum’s newest restaurant, Fiamma, debuted in March 2025. The Italian-inspired eatery, helmed by chefs Britt Rescigno and Kinsey Leodler-Rescigno, earned an AAA Four Diamond designation just a few months after it opened, becoming the third restaurant in all of Idaho to nab the prestigious distinction. Make a reservation, especially if you plan to dine on a winter weekend, so you can enjoy Fiamma’s handmade pasta dishes and seasonal, live-fired fare in an intimate setting.

Once the sun sets, belly up to the bar at the Pioneer Saloon, a classic Sun Valley watering hole brimming with wild west artifacts and memorabilia. Owned by Sheila and Duffy Witmer, “The Pio,” as it’s known locally, won the 2025 James Beard America’s Classics award for the mountain region—a major accolade for this historic gem, which dates back to the 1940s.

A peek inside the lobby at Limelight Hotel in downtown Ketchum

Kevin Syms

One of Limelight Hotel's 99 light-filled rooms to book

Kevin Syms

When it opened in 1936, Sun Valley became the nation’s first resort-style destination ski area thanks, in large part, to the Sun Valley Resort. With its unique X-shaped layout, luxurious decor, and heated outdoor swimming pools—a novelty at the time—the lodge helped solidify Sun Valley’s reputation as an upscale destination, and skiing as an activity worth planning a vacation around. Of course, it also helped that Sun Valley Resort help promote the resort by offering free stays to celebrities like Clark Gable, Marilyn Monroe, Lucille Ball, and Hemingway (who finished For Whom the Bell Tolls in the lodge’s suite 206 in 1939).

Today, wander among black-and-white photographs of these and other stars in a hallway, just off the lodge’s lobby or book one of the celebrity suites—all tastefully decorated with archival photos of the A-listers who’ve vacationed here. The sophisticated, 108-room lodge includes a 20,000-square-foot spa that’s perfect for easing muscles after a day on the slopes. It’s not ski-in/ski-out, but there’s a quick and free shuttle to the base areas of both Baldy and Dollar Mountain.

Located in the heart of downtown, Limelight Ketchum is more casual and contemporary, with 99 bright rooms and suites, plus 14 multi-bedroom condos. In the evenings, you’re likely to find locals munching on wood-fired pizza and listening to live music in The Lounge, a warm, living-room style gathering space on the first floor. With handy amenities like an expanded breakfast buffet, a coin-operated guest laundry, a fleet of bikes, and a robust shuttle service, Limelight Ketchum is ideal for families and groups.

Hotel Ketchum, situated on the other end of Main Street, is another downtown option. This boutique hotel is more budget-friendly, but doesn’t skimp on niceties like a fleet of e-bikes you can ride and a heated outdoor pool and hot tub for après-ski rejuvenation. It’s also home to one of Ketchum’s newest restaurants, FRX, a fast-casual eatery and bodega offering packaged snacks, fried chicken sandwiches, breakfast burritos, and beer. Hotel Ketchum also has a ramen restaurant with an accompanying Japanese-inspired ice cream shop. Not to mention, Sun Valley will soon welcome a new lodging option: Viceroy will open its newest outpost in downtown Ketchum, offering 73 guest rooms and 12 penthouse residences, as well as a full-service spa, a high-tech rooftop observatory, and an outdoor terrace bar.

Sun Valley rental homes:

This article has been updated with new information since its original publish date.